At the end of 2007, tracking down the best wine I've had all year

Arriving home from holidays spent with my family in Ontario late on Boxing Day, I have wine on my mind and lists at my fingertips.

This time of year is particularly good for amassing long wish lists. Wines you'd like to buy yourself, wines you'd like to store into the new year to share with others. The timing is particularly good for me. That's because, for a change, I'm perusing the aisles in the Ontario Liquor Board's Vintages. Or being generous and not following a budget to more freely make wine purchases.

I also equate this time of year with an opportunity for me to enjoy wine at lunch and at dinner (as my grandfather pointedly made known to all my relatives gathered around the Christmas dinner table -- I'm still not sure if his comments were a pat on the back for my resilience and earnest enthusiasm or the start of a future intervention).

THE ANNUAL BEST OF LIST . . .

My Annual Best of List for the last 12 months will be appearing here over the next five days. I won't have one single favourite as I did in 2005 and 2006, when I selected one top wine. This time, I'll be singling out a handful. They are all wines that I haven't yet posted any reviews for here, mostly because I was saving my notes until the end of the year to anoint my number one drink-it-everyday, anyway-you-like-it wine.

The gauge is drinkability plus affordability: Charming, masterful wines that are ready to drink now and come in at around $20 or less (even in Canadian dollars and including a hefty Quebec tax -- so these will not break any banks). Hmmm... Shall I offer some examples of what I am talking about?

WANNABE CHIANTI

One wine you won't see on my list but clearly could have is the Poggio alla Badiola IGT Toscana 2005 from the vaunted Mazzei house. You also won't see it in Ontario's LCBO flagship store at Yonge and Queen's Quay, as I was there and looked hard, hoping to find just one bottle of the four cases that was indicated on the LCBO website. They must've been scooped up fast because this baby is a special "Give me all 48!" bargain. Wannabe Chianti? Why not.

As of today, I've only briefly tasted this wine after picking it up at the SAQ. I desperately want to search out more for proper note-taking but already I'd easily make this bottle a top runner-up for the year or an honourable mention or whatever it is that makes people sit up and take notice. It could be the greatest Italian wine value that's out there. And since well-made Italian wines are not usually cheap, especially in Quebec, this is certainly one to watch out for.

OLD WORLD MALBEC

While I'm allotting space for bottles that didn't make my list, here's a couple more notable 2005 reds that amaze me. (What is it about 2005?) They are both from Cahors in Southwest France. I call them the CDC 05 and CLC 05 -- the Chatons du Cèdre 2005 and the Clos la Coutale 2005 -- and they're just the ticket if you ever find the general repertory section of the SAQ a little drab. These are very cheap and very widely available. Having had them both many times over many recent years, it seems to me that they've never been better. Priced at $12.45 and $14.25 respectively (and that's in Canadian funds after all taxes), they are below my daily wine budget's typical range.

Amid the mass-produced alternatives that they share the shelf with, and amid all the ersatz Fuzion in the Argentina section that stares them down from across the store, these two are real standouts of the moment.

Château Saint-Brice Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 1999

Does this look good enough?


Good enough for this?


I could hardly be sure: This is my first grand cru. A fairly well-reviewed wine described as an expensive but not overpriced product from one of the celebrated châteaux operated by the Moueix family. I found this bottle -- the "second wine" of Château Magdelaine -- at a steep discount of 25% off after it had done some cellaring but was still very much before it's best-before date. Click on the image above for the SAQ's descriptive file on the current vintage.



Eyes:

Nose:

Mouth:

Stomach:

Sorry, no notes on this one. I really wanted to enjoy it, let it wash over me without an expressly critical approach, and see how it would change me.

What has changed? I have to say, not much, so perhaps that says it all. But if anyone wants more details or has a specific question you can email me.

Timed out: Château Valoussière 2001

In a commitment to balance and honesty, which are two great aspects of fine wine I might add, this post picks up where yesterday's left off. Namely, at the assumption that vintage can tell you more about how a specific sort of classified wine will evolve than the wine's vineyard. Although a valid statement, it could be more balanced and honest. Here goes...

I came up with yesterday's conclusions after taking notes on a 2002 Chinon and a 2002 Chablis, each one produced from a less-than-prestigious (strictly generic) terroirs within their respective appellations.

Drawing these conclusions made me think of my old friend Fred (from France) who smartly announced that he preferred a grand cru as he contemplated the wine list of Villejuif pizzeria in the outlying suburbs south of Paris. You might say, well Fred, who wouldn't prefer a grand cru? But what would you prefer it to? Would you prefer it to an inexpensive Rosso di Montalcino from 1997? After all, it's no 97 Brunello or anything. But going for the greatest prestige does have its downsides.

A) We couldn't afford it, and even if we could, B) would we want grand cru with pizza? Wouldn't a generic bottle from a landmark vintage, say 2001 along the shores of the Mediterranean -- Languedoc to be precise -- be a wiser choice?

Yes. I thought so then and I thought so yesterday. But now today... now I'm not so sure.

I love AOC Coteaux du Languedoc wine and it really shone in the year 2001. I loved the trusty Famille Jeanjean product called Château Valoussière, which is definitely what I would consider a value wine, in practically every vintage I tried. The 1998, 1999, 2000 -- I admired them all immensely. You would assume the 2001 version would be the cherry on top of the cake.

But it wasn't. It was average. Perhaps even below average. As if the winemakers were dealing with yields off a strange new tract of land that made wines paling in comparison to even lesser vintages. It seemed to show that provenance trumps vintage. This wine wasn't necessarily evolving at all, despite its timely credentials. I opened in mid-way through 2006. I likely should've opened it long ago. Vintage chart be damned!

Château Valoussière Coteaux du Languedoc 2001 (pictured above) - Not as memorable as previous vintages which is a particularly disappointing thing to say for any 2001 Languedoc, even one priced at $14. **

Back in time: Couly-Dutheil La Coulée Automnale 2002

Or, Have you ever wondered whether that wine is good enough to age?

I am titling this post "Back in time" for many reasons. One: The title makes an obvious reference to the time and place when grapes are harvested and vinified -- those crucial moments that shape the lifeline of a wine. Two: what follows is an old tasting note that I had written and then put aside. The wine reviewed in my note is one that has not been sold in stores for over a year's time -- you'd likely need a time machine to track it down. Yet I find this old relic of a note -- of little interest to today's wine shoppers -- quite interesting, especially because it says something about the lifespan of wine. I guess the goal of this post is show that history can be very instructive in appreciating wine.

Joe, who writes Joe's Wine Journal, raised an instructive question here about when a wine is ready to drink and whether the auspicious 2002 vintage in Northern France meant that folks should be waiting longer to uncork bottles from that vintage. I was writing about an unclassed 2002 Chablis I had held on to, and he wondered whether the current 2005 vintage of it could come close to going a similar distance.

The answer is a mystery to all but those (not me) who have tasted the 2005. Even then, the answer can only be a prediction on how the wine will mature. Here's what I found out about French wine from the north of France circa 2002.

TIME VS PLACE, VINTAGE VS VINEYARD

Joe's comment first sent me to my Oxford Companion to Wine. There is no doubt that Chablis wines are among the great white wines of the world and as a result, benefit from some ageing. An exceptional vintage like 2002 obviously has a role in prolonging the development of a Chablis, making a fine wine even better. So good advice would be to check a vintage chart to see how long you should wait to open a 2005. (An fine example of one such vintage chart is on the Berry Bros & Rudd site -- it is both user-friendly and useful.)

But once everything is said and done, the vineyard itself is probably is more significant than the vintage. A vineyard that is classed to produce a grand cru or a premier cru makes a wine that is built to last, and in fact, built to get better in the case of Chablis.

For example, the J Moreau & Fils is not a classified growth. I guess that's why my instincts initially said don't wait for the 2005. Yet the 2002 version of it held its own despite being generic Chablis, which means you're back at the vintage chart determining how far you want to gamble with your bottle.

Then I went to the SAQ database, which added to the dilemma. The Quebec wine seller has several Chablis Premier Cru that are actually cheaper than a generic Chablis like J Moreau. The price difference could be the result of various factors but one could only assume that wine quality be one of them. So this makes for yet another reason to defer to someone who's had the opportunity to assess it: Michel Phaneuf; Jancis Robinson, et al -- hey, Jamie Goode has got a scoop on 2005 Laroche on his site today. (I've said it before and I'll say it again, the worldly wine taster whose palate you can relate to is worth more than its weight in gold.)

ENOUGH CHABLIS, WHAT ABOUT CHINON

All this research and musing led me back to this note I took on the Couly-Dutheil La Coulée Automnale Chinon 2002, a Loire Valley Cabernet. When this wine came out at the SAQ, it was not well-reviewed by Michel Phaneuf. I think this is exactly the type of bottle that needs time. A case of its class being trumped by its vintage. This bottle is at the bottom of totem as far as vineyard prestige is concerned, but that didn't stop it from showing a clear ability to develop over time, especially given the vintage. When I tasted it in its fifth year, it modest lineage still had miles and miles in it. Here's that note.

Couly-Dutheil La Coulée Automnale Chinon 2002 - (pictured at top): Though this vintage is no longer available on SAQ shelves, it would be wise to decant it once and then decant it again for good measure. This style of wine can last weeks in the open air and is only supple enough to really show its stuff after a thorough aeration or, even better yet, on the next night (or the night after that). Delicious with earthy dishes, beef medallions, ratatouille pasta. ***

So it appears that vintage is key, vineyard is not. Or is it? Tomorrow: a great vintage lets me down.

Les Christins and other fine Christmastime wines

'Tis the season to indulge in special wines and this weekend my friends and I enjoyed something beyond the everyday bottle which usually sustains us for most of the year.

December is definitely feeling festive, and as if on cue, freezy and snowy weather started at the beginning of the month, right on the dot. Now I've been opening my fridge door like I would open the little flaps on an advent calendar. A little goodie is waiting for me each time.

I've got a fair deal of special wines that need drinking (scroll down to the very bottom to see my list). It's occurred to me that using bottles of wine to count down the days of December sounds like a good way to get the stuff uncorked. It also warms you on winter nights and gains you drinking buddies, which is also good.

WHEN SNOW AND FRIENDS CONVERGE

First up, just in time for Montreal's first snowfall, was something from my wine fridge -- Perrin et Fils Les Christins Vacqueyras 2003. I chose it not because it was nearing a past-peak date but because it was a recent Wine Spectator Top 100 pick.

That was a surprise to me. I bought Les Christins based on its reputable name and bargain price: Perrin of Château de Beaucastel and a 25% discount. It was merely a bonus that it came in at number 98 on the 2005 list. In fact I almost didn't buy it because of its year: 2003, a vintage which all but ruined my everyday favourites from the Rhône by robbing my dinners of an important acidity -- the kind that is a perfect counterbalance to food. My worries here were unnecessary, but more on that later.

In any case, when I discovered that the 2003 Les Christins made the list I soon found out the 2004 Les Christins did as well. Yes, it's true, which means that this cuvée is one of the few to make onto consecutive Top 100 lists (though the 2004 is outshining its preceding "heatwave" vintage of 2003 by reaching number 83 on this year's list). So obviously I wanted to taste it for myself.

Also spurring me on to uncork was Alice Feiring who wrote recently that she would consider drinking only a dozen of the WS 100. If you're not familiar with Alice, you should know that her statement is not exaggeration or sensationalism. She knows what wine she likes -- what type, what's added to it, and especially the method in which it is made. A couple Rhônes from the 2006 list made Alice's list but this one was not one of them.

Me, I'm much more impressionable. But then I'm situated differently than Alice. No vendages for me, or at least not yet. And I drink and appreciate wine from a fairly different stratum too. So this Perrin pleased me, infinitely more than the 2003 Perrin Nature or the 2003 Perrin Réserve. Its structure had much more integrity. And as for enjoying it with food, it turned out this majority Grenache blend held its own with local grain-fed organic chicken (shown roasted at right) which was served with a delicious sauce made of its own juices, red wine and berry preserves. (The lovely Perrin blog suggests a recipe quite similar to roasted chicken -- rabbit 'rouzigue').

Perhaps because it's not that much more expensive than the Réserve and Nature bottles, Wine Spectator has been singling out Perrin's Les Christins. But why spectulate on Wine Spectator? A while back the website for the magazine opened up its vast tasting note database, and me, knowing how many special wines I had on the hand that needed monitoring, made myself a little list.

A LIST OF TWENTY WINES TO GET ME THROUGH TO CHRISTMAS

So here, starting with the Les Christins, are helpful descriptive notes (plus the less useful scores -- but it's all courtesy of the kind folks at Wine Spectator so who can complain) for a bunch of wines I'm considering opening this holiday season. Hmmm... Twenty wines. Twenty Advent Calendars windows left to open. If I uncork one a day I'll wake up and find that it's Christmas. With a hangover too.

Perrin & Fils
Vacqueyras Les Christins 2003

A gorgeous nose of dark fruit confiture and spice cake flavors is followed by a powerful palate of dark fruit, smoke, tar and minerals. Richly layered and densely structured, but with an elegant side as well. Best from 2006 through 2009. 4,165 cases made. –James Molesworth

Score: 91 | Price: $19

Country: France
Region: Southern Rhône

Issue: Aug 5, 2005


Barone Ricasoli
Chianti Classico Brolio 2002

Tasty black fruit, mineral and vanilla character. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a tangy mineral finish. Good quality for a 2002 CC. The estate didn't make its top CC, Castello di Brolio, this year, so part of it went into this. Best after 2004. 42,000 cases made.

Score: 87 | Price: $22

Country: Italy
Region: Tuscany

Issue: Oct 31, 2004


Antinori
Umbria Cervaro della Sala 2002

Meursault gets a suntan. This is a minerally, rich and fruity Chardonnay similar to the great appellation of Burgundy, but then there is a dried fruit, very flashy Italian style to it. Full-bodied, with good acidity and a long, exotic fruit aftertaste. Drink now. 15,830 cases made. –JS

Score: 91 | Price: $42

Country: Italy
Region: Umbria

Issue: Jun 15, 2004


Léon Beyer
Riesling Alsace Les Écaillers 2000

A dry style, showing some maturity with petrol, lanolin, apple and peach aromas and flavors. It has a good structure and full body, followed by a long finish. Should accompany roast pork or chicken nicely. Drink now through 2008. 1,500 cases made. –BS

Score: 90 | Price: $30

Country: France
Region: Alsace

Issue: Jul 31, 2004


Alsace Willm
Gewürztraminer Alsace 2004

Rich and appealing, this offers honey, vanilla and tropical fruit notes in a soft, open structure. Good finish. Drink now. 2,500 cases made. –BS

Score: 85 | Price: $12

Country: France
Region: Alsace

Issue: Oct 15, 2005


Mumm Cuvée Napa
Brut Napa Valley Prestige NV

A smooth, creamy, delicate style, with light cherry and Pinot Noir flavors that echo orange peel and smoky citrus notes. Drink now through 2005. 175,000 cases made. –JL

Score: 87 | Price: $16

Country: California
Region: Napa


Torres
Chardonnay Penedès Gran Viña Sol 2004

This oaky white has a rich texture and flavors of sweet vanilla, toast and melon. But it's a bit ponderous. Contains 15 percent Parellada. Drink now. 1,000 cases imported. –TM

Score: 83 | Price: $15

Country: Spain
Region: Spain

Issue: Nov 15, 2005


Christian Moreau Père & Fils
Chablis 2002

Mineral aromas mark this white, whose richness provides a supple coating for the firm underlying structure. It hints at apple and honey before coming back to the mineral theme. Nice length. Drink now. –BS

Score: 87 | Price: $17

Country: France
Region: Burgundy

Issue: Aug 31, 2004


Château St.-Martin de la Garrigue
Coteaux du Languedoc White 2004

Medium-bodied, with grapefruit, ripe apple and rose petal flavors, and ripe spicy notes as well. Forward and fresh-tasting, with mineral elements on the finish. Drink now through 2007. 195 cases imported. –KM

Score: 88 | Price: $14

Country: France
Region: Languedoc-Roussillon

Issue: Nov 15, 2005


Rosemount
Shiraz South Eastern Australia Diamond Label 2004

Ripe and sprightly, with pleasant blackberry and herb flavors. Drink now. 485,000 cases imported. –HS

Score: 85 | Price: $12

Country: Australia
Region: Australia

Issue: Sep 30, 2006


Familia Rutini
Malbec Tupungato Trumpeter 2004

Elegant, floral style with red berry fruit, vanilla and violet notes. Creamy, toasty finish. Drink now. 55,000 cases made. –JM

Score: 86 | Price: $9

Country: Argentina
Region: Mendoza

Issue: Nov 15, 2005


Fetzer
Merlot California Valley Oaks 2003

Straightforward, with berry, currant, toasty oak and pleasant spicy notes. Drink now. 461,000 cases made.

Score: 83 | Price: $9

Country: California
Region: Other California

Issue: Oct 15, 2005


Fattoria dei Barbi
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997

Superaromatic, with leather, blackberry and cedar aromas. Very Sangiovese. Full-bodied, yet silky and caressing, with a long and enjoyable finish. Lovely. Best after 2003. 3,330 cases made. –JS

Score: 92 | Price: $95

Country: Italy
Region: Tuscany

Issue: May 31, 2003


Coldstream Hills
Pinot Noir Yarra Valley 2002

Light and crisp, with a leathery edge to the low-volume raspberry and floral flavors. Drink now. 18,000 cases made. –HS

Score: 83 | Price: $18

Country: Australia
Region: Australia

Issue: Web Only (2003)


De Martino
Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Legado Reserva 2003

There's solid black cherry and currant fruit here, but sweetish oak turns a bit cloying in the end. Drink now. 3,000 cases made. –JM

Score: 83 | Price: $15

Country: Chile
Region: Maipo

Issue: Web Only (2005)


Herdade Grande
Alentejo 2003

Fruity, with plum pudding flavors and a finish of hot cinnamon. Drink now. 16,000 cases made. –KM

Score: 83 | Price: $11

Country: Portugal
Region: Portugal

Issue: Web Only (2006)


Tedeschi
Verona Capitel San Rocco Ripasso 2003

A flamboyant red, with ripe currant, earth and freshly tanned leather character. Medium- to full-bodied, with fine tannins and a persistent dried fruit and mineral finish. Best after 2006. 4,300 cases made. –JC

Score: 88 | Price: $22

Country: Italy
Region: Veneto

Issue: Aug 31, 2006


Fonterutoli
Chianti Classico 2003

Smoky and meaty blackberry character, with tight minerals and lightly toasted oak. Medium-bodied, with fine, well-integrated tannins and a balanced finish. Best after 2005. 16,670 cases made.

Score: 87 | Price: $25

Country: Italy
Region: Tuscany

Issue: Oct 31, 2005


Cantina del Taburno
Falanghina Taburno 2005

A bit dull, with apple and lemons. Medium-to-light body. Fresh finish. Drink now. 54,165 cases made. –JS

Score: 84 | Price: $16

Country: Italy
Region: Campania

Issue: Web Only (2006)


Château Lagrézette
Malbec Cahors 2002

Ripe and powerful, with a mature aroma of game and spice, with flavors of dried cherry, plum, nutmeg and boysenberry. Firm, peppery finish. Well-honed and balanced, with plenty of structure. Drink now through 2011. 10,928 cases made. –KM

Score: 89 | Price: $20

Country: France
Region: Southwest France

Issue: May 15, 2006

Night flight

The following crib notes are gathered from around the Internet and beyond for my imminently approaching birthday dinner.

Vineland Estates Dry Riesling 1994
L'entrée

The most memorable property along the Niagara wine route is none other than Vineland Estates Winery. Some say it’s because of its location—on the bench of the Niagara palisade, overlooking rolling hills and Lake Ontario. But there’s more to Vineland than just a pretty view. Its premium wines and world-class restaurant are what captured our attention.

Riesling has become the hallmark of the property, and a number of vintages have snagged top honors at championships not only in Canada, but also in France, Italy, England, and the United States. These changes are due to the efforts of general manager Allan Schmidt and of Schmidt’s brother Brian, Vineland’s chief winemaker.

Michel Phaneuf recommends Riesling with seafood, fish, fresh vegetables. Local pairings where terroir and dish come together are encouraged as well.

Well-aged Riesling will gain a colour of goldish yellow with a nose of petrol. 2006 marks the end of this varietal's astonishing design life. Konrad Ejbich rated it among the best of Ontario's current Rieslings and warned that it should be opened soon as it is beginning its decline.


Château Montauriol Mon Aureolus 2001
Plat principal

Composed of Négrette 50%, Cabernet Sauvignon 25%, Syrah 25%. The wine has a brilliant and deep ruby red colour. The nose is strong, velvety with a nuance of ripe red fruits. Elegant touch of blackcurrant and violet. Equally there are spicy undertones of « garrigue ».

On the palate the wine is robust, harmonious and long with nice touch of truffle and wood. The tannins of this wine are soft with a smoothness which is a characteristic of the local grape variety, the Négrette.

It is recommended to serve with red meats, game and hard cheese at a temperature of 17 to 19 °C. This wine is to be drunk within 2 to 10 years.

A favourite birthday wine. This vintage was a hit last year at La Colombe.


Tonon Rossi del Camul 2001
Plat/Fromages

Suggested by the Caveman, sommelier at L'Eau à la Bouche in Ste-Adèle. Click image at left for details on this wine.

[Understudy for reds: Giordano Da Uve Il Vinré 2003]


Domaine Bellegarde Jurançon sec Cuvée tradition Moelleux 2002
Dessert

Silt clay soils with a lot of pebbles left by torrent. 35% Petit Manseng, 65% Gros Manseng.

Individually sorted and handpicked harvest of fully matured grapes in order to obtain a typical Jurançon. Vinification and ageing in stainless steel vats for Gros Manseng, and oak barrels for Petit Manseng.

Thanks to blending the two grape varieties, the wine gets lively and fresh notes of matured citrus fruits from Gros Manseng, and refinement and maturity from Petit Manseng, which gives the wine all its roundness.

A perfect aperitif and wonderful dessert wine.


Lemaistre Grenache Riche 2002
Extra bottle, should it be needed ("for the table")

No it's not Port, but when served at the end of a long rich meal it feels like a light digestible version of it.


Check back and I'll let you know how it all goes down.

Top Ten European Wines for the money

I promised myself I would not do this but now I'm too excited to stop myself. I'm going to encourage sales for the swindling crooks at the SAQ, who are hopefully on their way out.

Background: For so many years, Quebeckers have watched prices go up and up at their wine stores, which are operated by a liquor agency that has a province-wide monopoly. Until today, I can only recall one bottle ever going down in price as our Canadian dollar gradually grew stronger on world markets. Finally, with close to a 10% reduction on numerous mid-priced European bottles that are available across the chain, consumers have a chance starting today to shop with satisfaction (as long your satisfaction isn't dulled by the fact that currency rates have in fact fluctuated by 15% -- they give us an inch because they know we can't take a mile).

In the end, I don't see the following list as an encouraging slap on the back to the SAQ and their half-assed pricing. It's merely an attempt to tell local consumers where the best deals now lie when they are about to make a purchase.

(I have tasted all of the vintages below -- more recent vintages in stock are likely just as good.)

Top 5 red wine values:

1. Magellan Ponant Vin de pays des Côtes de Thongue 2003 $14


2. Alves de Sousa Quinta das Caldas Douro 2003 $14.60


3. Antonin Rodet Pinot Noir Bourgogne 2003 $17.95


4. Château Sainte-Eulalie Cuvée Tradition Minervois 2003 $15.35


5. Clavel Les Garrigues Coteaux-du-Languedoc 2003 $17.55

Top 5 white wine values:

1. Vieilles Vignes du Domaine Langlois-Château Saumur 2002 $21.90


2. Idylle Cruet Cuvée Vieille Vigne Vin-de-Savoie 2002 $16.50


3. Domaine du Salvard Cheverny 2004 $15.20


4. Château Tour des Gendres Cuvée des Conti Bergerac (sec) 2003 $15.50


5. Sparr Pinot Blanc Alsace 2003 $13.75

Delightful and back under $13 (where they belong!):

• Umani Ronchi Medoro Marche 2003 $11.05


• Ijalba Genoli Viura Rioja 2003 $12.50

It's that time of year when...

It can be hard finding a drinking buddy. New Year's resolutions are still fresh from the oven and more people than usual want to swoop in for a roll on the wagon. Maybe that's my perception. I have been unrelentingly focused on wine lately. Any abstain-from-drinking developments are bound to seem more pronounced to me than they really are. Whatever the case, I feel I may be destined to move to pubby Ireland. When the dryness is this palpable I have to say less is definitely not more.

Or is it? Some people who are laying off the vino know what they are doing. Like the Quaffability people, who are quite smart. They organize a leave of absence from drinking right about now. This is a wise idea and I know from personal experience that taking a bit of a timeout can nourish your appreciation of wine in the long run. So those people aren't really on the wagon. They're climbing up on it only so they can take a better plunge. It's like they've got a little sidecar temporarily attached to it. Eventually they figure they've had enough of the ride; they take the pin out of the preload slot and spin off onto the shoulder. (You know that these types of people are so smart they have a bottle ready with them when this happens -- they'll be gleefully uncorking it in plain view of the passing wagon... yeah. Smart.)

Aside from vacation from the drink, there are vacations, period. This is yet another reason why I don't see people drinking: I just don't see them at all. A good friend of my bottles, Jane, went off to Cuba for the holidays. She finally was back in town last night. It was a long wait for a toast to the new year with her scampering all around Santiago and Havana, dulling her appetite for wine all the while. I suspected she was now on vacation from the sauce, but no, not really. That's just what Cuban wine can do to you. While my holiday trip to Niagara was in part organized so I could drink more wine, take a jaunt to the Caribbean and you'll learn to start avoiding the stuff. Or go glass half-full and redirect your palate to something the locals are more apt to specialize in, like coffee. Jamie Goode has taken time to do that. Thanks to a Cuban coffee souvenir, Jane has allowed me to do that too. (Too bad she missed out on my Niagara souvenir on New Year's Eve, Thirteenth Street's Funk Blanc de Blancs 1999, which I received from my sister in exchange for a Bandol from Chateau Pradeaux.)

Mmm... Bandol. I'll skip that coffee appreciation night. On top of all of the teetotaling types above, the time is ripe for running into the people with sore throats and stuffed-up noses. Partaking in anything wine-related is a total waste when you've got a cold. So there's yet another potential drinking partner down the drain. I haven't had a cold yet this season. In publishing that, I may have summoned the kiss of death. Ruinous! No matter: I shall pretend to carry on as usual and not be too hasty. Here's the current haul I revere in expectancy of that special moment with friends:

1. Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 1997


2. Château de Chamirey Mercurey 2002


3. Domaines Barons Rothschild Réserve Spéciale Pauillac 2001


4. Pascal Bouchard Vieilles Vignes Chablis 2000


5. Karly's Ten Point Buck Zinfandel Armador County 2001


6. Hillebrand Estates Glenlake Vineyard Merlot Niagara Peninsula 1995


7. Château de Parenchère Cuvée Raphael Bordeaux Supérieur 2001


8. Vineland Estates St Urban Riesling Niagara Peninsula 1994 (John please save me one to buy!)