Anytime wine: O'Terra (formerly Opus Terra) Les Vignerons des Tourelles Merlot Syrah 2005

O'Terra is short for Opus Terra, but you can't really say that since some Californian heavyweights in the wine world have taken over official ownership of the word Opus since the mid-eighties.

When the Vignerons des Tourelles in Languedoc-Rousillon created this cuvée in the nineties, its label (which happens to be the one on the bottle shown above) was considered as infringing on the copyright of the winery, which is Opus One. As an outcome of the legal dustup, Tourelles had to settle for naming their wine O'Terra.

In Quebec, there is no Opus One wine currently for sale. When there was, it was priced at $264. The "opus" of a cuvée that the Vignerons des Tourelles make is $251 cheaper. No wonder Opus One was worried!

I've never tasted any wine carrying the Opus One brand -- I'm sure it'd be hard to compare it to O'Terra Vin de Pays d'Oc 2005, but I think it goes without saying that this bottle here is the anytime wine that Opus One is not.

Anytime wine is a great thing. It's the wine I described in the last post. Only the most difficult-to-pair dish would not be done justice by this savoury, oak-free, fruit-driven red wine. It's not meant to age however, so when I say it's anytime wine I mean anytime this year or next.

O'Terra is 60% Merlot and 40% Syrah. This balance is perfect. It renders tannic values to an exceptably low level for lighter fish dishes; it adds complexity to a flavour profile that is expressive enough to come across whether it served with steak or duck.

What else can I say? I most often think of opening a Loire red for my favourite dinners. But the times in between special dining occasions are more than well-served by this fantastic $13 bottle.

Eyes: A clear red with medium depth.

Nose: Fairly aromatic. It suggested cherry pie to me. Some yeasty notes with alluring red berry aromas.

Mouth: Crisp and refreshing attack with plums in a savoury spice. Tremendous brightness with a dry and light-to-medium body. Intense flavours supported by some round tannin. The finish is somewhat weaker than the attack. Simple but so expressive.

Stomach: A food-friendly package has been delivered to you. I had this with tuna casserole one night, red meat the next. Pork, poultry, salmon, why not? Lamb might not be the perfect match, but it would work.

You also might take Michel Phaneuf's word on this wine since it's been given high praise for a number of consecutive years, even in the troublesome 2002 vintage.

I particularly appreciate Malcolm Anderson's review despite being for a vintage that has long passed. I last tasted this version four to five years ago, yet it still sounds pleasantly familiar:

I really liked this wine’s blend of merlot and syrah. It had a leathery, animal, earthy nose and delightful blackberry fruit on the palate with a complexity rarely seen in a wine of this price. The wine has no oak aging - you taste what the grapes and the winemaker gave you. the wine has enough tannins to add interest to the palate but they are the softer grape tannins imparted by the skin and are easy to handle. If you are lucky enough to have any remaining turkey leftovers at this date, defrost them for this excellent wine. Wine of the week ****

Malcom Anderson - The Gazette - Jan. 11, 2003

Beaucaire, Gard, France. 14%.

Tasting current Languedoc-Roussillon VdPs: Domaine de Gourgazaud & Laroche 2005

A good way to define Vin de Pays wine is to compare it to wine of the French appellation (AOC) system. But when you only discovered the French appellation system the moment that Wine Blogging Wednesday 33 was announced last month, the comparison may not be all that instructive.

That's why I think the best way to define a Vin de Pays wine is to taste it!

For WBW 33, try to pick a moderately priced bottle ($15-30) and assess its value. Your bottle could be a Languedoc-Roussillon Vin de Pays (VdP) or, of course, a Languedoc-Roussillon AOC wine (more about AOC in the original WBW 33 announcement which is linked above). Any mid-priced wine is allowed to participate, just as long as it comes from this southern French region sometimes known as the Midi. Things like colour, style of wine and alcohol content do not matter so focus on the fact that your bottle is mid-priced and features the right designation of origin on the label.

Since vin de pays is a new topic for those following along with WBW 33 preparations, I've created a complete listing of VdP classifications that indicate a Languedoc-Roussillon product. By consulting this list you can find out if the vin de pays you dig up will be eligible for the blogging event on May 16. Why not try out any vin de pays you find until then?

Here are a couple of bottles of vin de pays from Languedoc-Roussillon that I drank recently and what I thought of them.

Like taking a bite out of the most ripe and delicious fruit. Laroche Viognier Vin de pays d'Oc 2005 (click on image at left for more details) has citrus and a hint of spice, making it edgy and refreshing rather than heavy, as the often full-bodied Viognier grape can be. This wine is testament to the tremendous fruit of this grape variety. An outstanding example of the well-balanced and aromatic attack of a lovely transplated northern Rhone grape and it's one that comes with a very small price. Laroche sets the price so low (about $14) that it's not technically eligible for WBW 33.

Béziers, France. 13.5%.

I'm not going to pretend I love every wine from Languedoc-Roussillon that I've ever tasted. For the sake of impartiality, here is a not-so-good wine from Languedoc-Roussillon, another Viognier varietal. Domaine de Gourgazaud Viognier Vin de pays d'Oc 2005 (click on image at right for more details) delivers fat flavours without much refreshment value, and features a prominent apple profile with some white peach. Lacks the dazzle, if not the acidity, of the above, which is a natural for a great aperatif wine. This one's a bit flat.

La Livinière, France. 13.5%.

These wines are both of the frequently-cheap Vin de Pays d'Oc classification. The Oc designation embodies an area as big as all of Languedoc-Roussillon itself. This enables winemakers to use grapes from a vast geographical area. Since this means that partnerships among various producers across the land can be made, it is not surprising that the bottles often would be inexpensive.

A NOTE ABOUT THE TYPE ON THE LABEL

I often look at the location listed on a bottle of wine. (Maybe this is why I am so maniacal for WBW 33!) Usually the place on the label is where the wine producer vinified, cellared or bottled his product. It's not necessarily where the grapes come from (that why the designation of the wine is needed).

This is interesting to me, and not just in the context of VdP wines. But in the case of VdP wines, when you see where the producers are based, you can try to guess what the other possible designations the producer could've labeled his wines. Had Michel Laroche been more choosy and used only grapes from his immediate zone around Béziers, could he have made a wine with a more specific designation like Vin de Pays du Coteau du Libon? Or in the case of the Domaine de Gourgazaud based in La Livinière, which is the heart of the Minervois appellation, why not go for an AOC Minervois classification? Neither case may be an option (and this interpretive guide from France is one of the few online resources that may help explain why in English). Basically, neither case is an option because even VdP rules vary from one VdP classification to another (Libon restrictions are separate from D'Oc restrictions), and because Minervois doesn't permit the production of Viognier varietals. So multiple designation options are not always available to winemaker for the wine he or she wants to make. Hence the plethora of vin de pays.

Hey, regulations can't always seem sexy -- uncork a vin de pays today and let it speak for itself. And then maybe thank the great Gassac's Aimé Guibert for inventing the stuff.

Two versions of Merlot (from way down low): Domaine Campradel & Fortant de France 2005

Following a familiar grape as it travels down toward the Mediterranean to ripen and then takes sticker prices south as well

Here are two Merlots that dip way down low, in terms of vineyard location and also in terms of retail pricepoint. These do not come from the land of Pomerol or Friuli or any other Merlot-centric region (which capitalize on the grape variety's ability to perform well in relatively cooler climates). Perhaps not coming from any of those places is partly why these versions demand less money. Indeed these are not Bordeaux by a long shot. These are from the sunny Midi (which has a much warmer climate), and at the very least it offers something a lot of Bordeaux and Northern Italian reds can't offer. Bargain Merlot.

Basement-bin bargain Merlot. These two bottles are among the cheapest recent shipments in Quebec. Click on the images for detailed product information.

Of Merlot, a traditional grape within the Bordeaux blend and mainstay in the areas surrounding the Gironde and Gascony, Jancis Robinson contributes the following to her Oxford Companion to Wine:

With Syrah, Merlot has been a major beneficiary of the Languedoc's recent replanting with 'improving' grape varieties. Total plantings in the Languedoc more than doubled between 1988 and 1998 to reach 18,500 ha. Most of this is destined for vins de pays for the only Languedoc appellations to sanction Merlot within their regulations are Cabardès and Côtes de la Malepère. Merlot has been a much more successful import here than Cabernet Sauvignon and can produce some good value, fruity wines for drinking young, many of which were shipped to the United States in the mid 1990s to satisfy American demand for this most fashionable of wines.

These two bottles of Merlot definitely have the potential to be great buys -- they come in at roughly $10 a bottle -- though in these post-Sideways days, one wonders how fashionable these bottles really are. Popular trends aside, since they are produced from the same grape variety from the same wine region from the same vintage, it seemed so natural for me to compare them in a single post. Yet despite their "face-value" commonalities, I looked closer to unpack some issues around the production of these wines.

DOES BARGAIN WINE CROSS OVER INTO CORPORATE WINE?

I wondered whether there might be another reason why these wines are so inexpensive. It may have something to do with the fact that they have come out of fairly big, fairly international machines. They are not examples of corporate wine though, or at least I am not considering them to be.

While the Fortant de France brand is part of the massive holdings of the Skalli Family -- the first French producers to make a splash with wine that touted grape variety rather than appellation -- it still captures a certain place and certain time. When done tastefully, isn't that the most honourable trait of the winemaker, no matter how extensively his family of producers stretch out around the world? ... No matter how much the gimmickry of a certain grape variety on the label may try to usurp that place and time?

Of the two, I actually prefer the Domaine Campradel Vin de Pays D'Oc Merlot 2005 though. I would gladly recommend it over the Fortant de France Vin de Pays D'Oc Merlot 2005, comments above notwithstanding. Domaine Campradel is one of some 40 French estates that produce under the Louis Bernard seal. The Rhône-based Louis Bernard brand you might see on bottles is, more than anything, an alliance between the growers or récoltants and the merchants or négociants, which are what Boisset America, importer of Louis Bernard wine, term as expert sales and management teams. (Corporate-sounding, yes, but no wine production process here is owned or managed by a corporation.) The Boisset America web site explains the relationship with synergistic fervour: "Because the members of the executive team are also wine specialists, a commitment to quality wine is maintained on every level." Where there's a claim to quality wine, my open mouth is never far behind.

THE TASTING NOTES START HERE

The Campradel was fairly opaque and deep red in the glass and noticeably richer to the eye than the other Merlot. (Though of the two, the Campradel started out colder which seems to make a difference to the eye when you pour it out -- has anyone else noticed this?) It had a nice brick edge. It was surprising to contrast this with the light fuschia colour and transluscent appearance of the Fortant.

Both Merlots gave off an aroma of sour cherry but the way they tasted seemed to be a direct extension of the way they looked, giving Campradel an edge as a greater value wine. It was full of savoury fruit ranging from cherry to berry to plum to stewed prunes. It had a lovely finish and final note that came off a bit like burnt sugar. Very lovely. Overall it was the wine with a deeper profile.

The Fortant had as much body as the Campradel, but lacked the depth and personality. It did not seem to present much character at all, which is a harsh blow that makes Fortant's varietal endeavour feel more than a bit hollow. But with time, this changed. A greenish run within it that made the wine seem quite astringent finally opened up to reveal promising cocoa tones. It's a wine for splashing about and if you decant it the pay-off is there: Merlot and all its chocolatey smoothness and approachability, a perfect partner for lip-smacking desserts, as the Fortant label suggests.

In the end, quite different directions for these two $10 Merlots from the 2005 Pays d'Oc harvest. I opt for the Campradel and how it pairs readily with dinner. Although I suspect the Fortant has its own equally valuable role too, it's not as impressive.

Orange, Vauclause, France. 14%; Sète, France. 13%.

How to beat the Christmas shopping rush: Dupéré-Barrera Les Terres de Méditerranée 2004

"The more the experts proclaim their approval of great wines, the harder it becomes for the consumer to actually drink them."
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  Post updated 061221 in comments

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I've never seen so many wine shoppers as I have lately. All these new fellow shoppers... is it camaraderie or is it competition?

It's competition.

Despite the spirit of the season, I definitely see it as competition. HUGE competition at that. Bah humbug buddy, that bottle's mine!

The fact is that getting top-reviewed bottles is harder now than I can ever remember. Typically at this time of the year, winning the sought-after cuvée is tough. This particular year it practically takes a Christmas miracle to get your hands on it. Or so it seems to me.

I have seen what it takes to secure those prized bottles when new shipments trickle in and then immediately start selling like hotcakes. When party supplies need to be stocked up and year-end lists encourage further purchases, buying that bottle can certainly appear to be a lost cause.

In Montreal, the main reason they sell like hotcakes is Michel Phaneuf, famed Quebecois wine writer. In my critical review of his Guide du Vin 2007, I suggested readers met with frustration when then opened the wine-buying guide because the annual survey of wines sold in the province was presented this year in a less user-friendly way than usual. I mostly discussed problems with its layout and ordering but one thing that caused me to meet frustration again and again was something I did not even mention. (I didn't mention it because it's the wine lover's paradox -- no fault of Phaneuf or his publishers.)

I'm talking about the well-known fact that the more the experts proclaim their approval of great wines, the harder it becomes for the consumer to actually drink them. Especially in the midst of a Christmas rush.

Recently Phaneuf has given some extremely affordable wines five-star reviews, a fairly unprecedented thing. As a result, it is impossible to get your hands on. When his wine newsletter let the cat out of the wine bag earlier this year, what short supply there was of the five-star Vistorta Merlot 2003 by Conti Brandolini d'Adda (pictured above) fast depleted from SAQ outlets (click on it and see). When restaurateurs buy up the stuff by the case, what chance does the everyday consumer really have?

Slim to none, but with persistence and discipline you can do like I did and score yourself some. But also please learn from my mistakes. Here's what I did in the course of my five-star pursuit:

LAST WEEK,
EACH MORNING...

Since the SAQ, like many wine agencies and retailers, has an online database of their stock, I made a point of checking in daily for any sign of the five-star wine in the province. Occasionally, results show 1 or 2 bottles. Calling the outlet that reports the stock usually is a dead-end. The outlet will reply that the number is an error or is normally-occurring breakage.

SATURDAY,
9:30 AM

The other day, I got lucky. It was half-past nine, the time outlets open, and I had just returned a search result indicating 8 bottles. This was a good sign. I called immediately. The employee responding to my query went to check on the actual stock and said he could account for 6 bottles. Two must've just sold, he told me. Fine. I asked for two of what was left to be put aside, saying that I was on my way to pick them up.

9:43 AM

I didn't immediately consider asking for more than two bottles because I didn't have access to a car. But then I thought a trek across the city using public transit with my half-case would be worth the trouble. I called back five minutes later to ask for all six bottles. They said that there were now only five bottles, but that I could have those. I said sure.

9:47 AM

An incoming call on my phone. My call display said it was the SAQ. Not a good omen. I answered and they informed me that only the original two bottles I had requested would be available for me to pick up. The other three bottles had been snapped up before they could reserve them for me. Too bad about that -- unfortunately wine lovers, that's what half-measures and hesitation will get you this Christmas in Quebec -- but I couldn't really complain.

WBW #23 Bottles for the Barbecue: La Baume Selection 2001

My barbecue isn't exactly the real thing but...


La Baume Selection Shiraz Cabernet...


...makes poser barbecue food entirely authentic!

At first all I could do was turn on the stove and follow a meagre strand of smoke as it trailed into the air. The only hint of real BBQ flavour I could hope for, coming up from yesterday's oil splatter still clinging to the electric element.

And so WBW #23 begins humbly, but a not-so-modest bottle stands in my corner.

The 2001 Selection Shiraz Cabernet from Domaine de la Baume pours out of its bottle (which has a nifty panoramic wrap-around wine label) in blackened reddish purple stream. A bit like black cherry syrup or perhaps blood -- c'mon it's a barbecue theme, let's celebrate the joys of meat!

This wine exalted my faux barbecue from the moment I uncorked it. Its feral volatile nose -- mustardy and at the same time funky smelling too -- was wild and unrestrained.

To finally taste it, La Baume Selection Shiraz Cabernet 2001 is not complex but assertive with great depth on the palate. It's a full-bodied spicebox kind of wine with nice tannic edges that are not too sharp but still manage to give off a generous amount of supple vanilla-loaded oak. Kind of sweet and very reminiscent of a big Aussie style of wine. Which makes sense: it's no coincidence that this Vin de Pays D'Oc hides its provenance on the back label and uses mostly English on the bottle. Domaine de la Baume is an a now-expired operation that was run by Australians transplanted to Southern France. Since 2001 was a landmark year for Languedoc, I'm happy to have had at least this lone bottle from these stylish vintners, the Hardys from Down Under.

On the second night, this La Baume (most likely a French name chosen based on its similarity in pronunciation to "The Bomb") opened up more to reveal even more fruit. Great and rich fruity flavours -- blueberry mostly and cassis. Like many wine of its style, it is a tad high in alcohol but it doesn't taste too, too hot and whatever heat it gives off you are rewarded for by pairing it with barbecue food. This wine is built to stand up to smoky, spicy and meaty meals. In general this wine is nice to have around food.

In addition to my rib-eye, grilled zucchini and taters, this Shiraz-Cabernet blend also hit it off with sundried tomato and basil sausages. Such is the beauty of the flexible and BBQ-friendly Cabernet-Syrah mixture. Good times. Thanks to Vivi's Wine Journal for the open invitation.

Servian, France. 14.5%

Winter whites... a flash in the pan, but only if you want them to be: Fortant de France 2003

In the middle of February, summer just couldn't seem further away. Yet here I am sipping more Sauvignon than ever. It may be great preparation for summer, but clearly these whites are no more "summer" wines than seafood is a dish you would only start ordering after April has passed.

Just this weekend, for a special birthday occasion, we uncorked the Château de Cruzeau Pessac-Léognan 2000, an André Lurton wine. It was such a delightful rendering with a noticeable dollop of Sémillon you need no season to enjoy it. A cilantro-infused bouillabaisse with heaps of tiny scallops loves this wine at any time of year.

Just below the Lurton in quality and way below in price is the gem of a bottle shown above. I bought the Fortant de France Sauvignon Blanc 2003 upon recommendation. It was last fall when the 2003 vintage was being replaced on store shelves by the 2004. After tasting all the wonderful European whites that the 2004 vintage has been bringing to the table, I'm sure I'd like the current Fortant offering just as much.

This varietal's nice heady bouquet imparts promise. The nose is similar to well-made and sharply-etched Soaves. In this package, which heils from the Midi, Fortant's Sauvignon doesn't have the finest of finishes but lovely aromatics and pungent pine-apply grip on the palate still make this a tremendous value. If you are at all fond of the cépage, I would encourage you to try out this extremely affordable, simply delicious and thoroughly quaffable wine. It's another strong contender for your everyday wine dollar produced by the Skalli family. (Perhaps I could offer no greater compliment than to write about a two wines in as many weeks from a single producer.)

And if you are accustomed to dousing yourself with Sauvignon as a way to find refreshment on a hot summer's day, think instead about uncorking it now. Bottles like these don't necessarily keep, and when they're next to an inviting dish like this, you wouldn't want them to, no matter what month it is.

Sète, France. 12%.

Country wine, simple and true

From the Skalli stronghold in the South of France, the Fortant de France Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 reminds me of the phrase "rhythm and melody", the crucial elements that combine to make a song. Why does the übergrape that is Cabernet Sauvignon prompt the playing of music in my mind? Well, I guess music is a good metaphor for creating a solid red wine. No, rhythm and melody is not a literal ingredient list for the winemaker -- though some of that in the background may help the wine drinker when it gets to uncorking time. Wine's dynamic duo would have to be "tannins and acidity". Like rhythm and melody, these two are the basis of a successful, enjoyable product.

Because this wine achieves greatness with its tannins and acidity, you forgive it its other shortcomings. It's not big, full of matter or full-bodied, all things that a Cabernet Sauvignon might conjure up. Its colour is nothing to write home about: a brick to garnet hue, already acknowledging its peak before turning three years old. You might also forgive it its bouquet, heady with a little spice. It doesn't give up much more. But none of this could indicate its admirable balance and so I move in to drink the stuff. The real test, isn't it? Well, it does have nice fruit. Cassis (blackcurrant) plain and simple. Some spice rounds it out but it's not complicated and fairly light-bodied for this grape variety. Nevertheless it possesses that winning form of solid structure -- the claim to fame of Cabernet Sauvignon. The tannins give it its backbone and it's the smart acid that gives it some nice length. Quite respectable and only sets you back about a sawbuck!

Oftentimes in the past I'd have a leftover half bottle of a Fortant de France wine and elect to make it my "cooking wine". I consider good cooking wines to be something respectable enough to drink but not prohibitive in price. When you put in a lot of time and effort (and money) cooking a gourmet meal why bring things down a level by adding plonk to your dish? (Don't go overboard either -- whose palate is refined enough to pick out a 97 Brunello in the coq au vin?) So basically, you take a Fortant like this and do yourself some good in front of the stove.

In any case, what I had pegged here as cooking wine for some five days running while it stood around in a half bottle was actually at a moment's notice poured back into my Spiegelau and thoroughly enjoyed once more. (When the Asian ladybug makes an unwelcome appearance, you need a quick back-up.) A wine once regulated to the top of the refrigerator next to the lemons and the coffee beans can come to bat in the clinch.

Sète, France 12.5%