20070110

J. Moreau & Fils 2002 is worth the wait

J. Moreau et Fils and sons Chablis 2002
Last month, I paraded on these pages twenty bottles of wine that I wanted to select for opening over the holiday period. I didn't come nearly as close as to polishing them off as I had hoped -- merely ten bottles were opened (half of them). My stamina disappoints.

The ones that didn't get uncorked are not "Drink Now" wines. They can wait for the next special occasion and I'm proud of that: If my stamina is weak, my survival skills are stay strong. See the full list of the wines that I am talking about.

I've got some good notes on one of the bottles that was opened early on in the festive season. It's Chablis from 2002. The 2002 vintage was a great one for Burgundy and the cuvées from Chablis that year are particularly notable. The J. Moreau & Fils Chablis 2002 is no exception. If you click on the bottle image, you'll see that the current stocked Moreau cuvée is the 2005. No one might recommend that you wait four to five years to enjoy the 2005, but I was quite pleased with how the 2002 fared so far along in its lifespan.

To the eye it had developed a golden yellow hue. A sweetish aroma wafted out my glass. The aroma was honeyed with flowers and wet stone. Hints of honeysuckle, white flowers, lychee and lemon surfaced too.

On the palate it was luscious. Flinty, with some discreet fruit, turning back to flinty notes on the finish, which was quite long. If admirable acid carried the back-end of this wine, it was definitely the minerality that bound the entire package together. From beginning to end, a great wine.

For food pairings, I would avoid peppery or spicy foods. Even a salmon and spinach mousse rubbed this fine wine the wrong way. It was too brassy for this elegant wine. Stick to dishes done with a deft touch. White fish or meat in a light preparation. An onion tart with lemon and capers or other similar amuse-bouches.

In addition I found this Chablis was nice with Canadian Riopelle cheese, which was a recent award winner in the cheese world, though I didn't know that at the time. Softer cheeses like a goat's cheese would likely be a smart idea too.

La Croix Saint-Joseph, Chablis, France. 12.5%.

8 comments:

Joe said...

Thanks for this - my 2007 resolutions include buying and drinking more Burgundy. Do you think the 2005 (looks like the stock photo from the SAQ site) needs more time, or can I drink that one now?

Marcus g58 said...

My instincts say drink now but I am far from a regular Burgundy drinker myself. I usually go with Phaneuf's comments on ageing (if he's assessed the wine in his 2007 guide) or try an expert like Jancis Robinson. She just released a heap of information on the 2005s in Burgundy. I saw this coming, so held back commenting back to you till I had the links, which is now:

jancisrobinson.com/articles/20070119_6
jancisrobinson.com/articles/20061204

Marcus g58 said...

Some explanation of the links I left above:

The first one is her just-posted-today round-up and the second one is a bit older, from last month, but it's another good summary and I think I saw Moreau mentioned in it.

Joe said...

I will go with your instincts, makes sense to me. Thanks for the links. Looks like they have stock at the Metcalfe store, so I will pick up a bottle when I go for "Midi-conseils" on Tuesday

Marcus g58 said...

Let me know how those Midi conseils are. My schedule won't allow me to go but I'm interested in hearing about what gets opened. It's such a great opportunity for some quick and dirty tasting notes.

More on Chablis to come...

Joe said...

I look forward to hearing more on Chablis.
Last week they opened: 2005 Guigal Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, 2005 Pierre Gaillard Condrieu (Viognier), 2004 Domaine Vins de Vienne Cotes du Rhone (red) and a 2003 Eric et Joel Durand Cornas (red). The Condrieu was spectacular, but 60 bucks. The Cornas was nice as well, should age well, but 47 bucks. The Guigal was a nice wine, but the Chateau de Nages white is identical and half price. The Cotes du Rhone, well, never mind. Cheers!

Marcus g58 said...

Thanks for the rundown Joe. I wish I could've tried that Viognier. I find that it actually helps your budget when you see for yourself what that extra $40 is getting you. I guess you are saying that you wouldn't spring for it?

As for the 2004 Domaine Vins de Vienne Cotes du Rhone, I hope that they served it first (I guess you're feeding them to me in order). We happened to try one on Saturday and it was much lighter than expected. Probably even lighter than those Rhones whites you tasted first. I actually liked it though; overall there were mixed feelings. Seemed pretty elegant for $18, if not exactly filled with personality or heft.

Keep me posted on the next flight. I'll be wishing I could attend!

Joe said...

Disappointed at losing the DiVino, I bought a Chablis. I couldn't remember if it was Moreau or Fevre, so I bought the Fevre...anyway, I will get one of your recommendations some day!