20070302

SNAKSHOT




fillet of pork tenderloin charcutiere fresh deli sauce broccoli grelot potatoes with rosemary
This is one of my standby meals when pork filets go on sale. It's from Jacques Pépin's Table, which I think was my first cookbook. Pépin does it all in this book, not only supplying heaps of great recipes but combining the individual dishes into menus to which he suits specific wines. If you can't find a copy in print, here's the webpage with the recipe for Filet of Pork Charcutière.

(In my experience, the flavours are so forward in this dish that chasing after some of the specific ingredients he lists is unnecessary. Use any onion, though red onion is a treat, and frankly, the white wine is not essential. Pickles, tomatoes and Tabasco are the integral components.)

I doubt Pépin makes even one suggestion for a Douro, a Dão or an Alentejo in the entire cookbook, but that's what I've got decanted in the pitcher above. After reading over his notes, a red from Portugal makes even more sense now than when I served it. The deli-style sauce is acidic so you need wine that won't turn to flab by comparison. I hate to say it, but no effing Merlot. A Barbera, or another rustic Italian red might work nicely but I think a lusty red from Portugal is ideal.

6 comments:

Joe said...

Argh - got this stupid blogger message tonight:
" WARNING
This blog has been locked by Blogger's spam-prevention robots. You will not be able to publish your posts, but you will be able to save them as drafts.

Save your post as a draft or click here for more about what's going on and how to get your blog unlocked."

Have you ever seen anything like this?

Brooklynguy said...

I love gherkins - I am totally trying this. And looks like you threw in some tarragon...

James said...

Hi Marc.

Frances and I have just come back from a wine tasting. Four whites and Four reds. 5 bottles were under $20 and three over $70. Needless to say we didnt like any of the expensive ones. In fact, I really only liked one red and one white. The red was "J Lohr - Carbenet Sauvignon". I would give this a 7/10. It had a very fruity aroma, but the taste was not as full bodied as you might expect. 12/13 of the group said they thought it was over $70. Yours truly went for under $20 and it was - I think it goes for about $15. The white Frances and I thought was great - "Benziger 2005 Chardonnay Los Carneros". It had a buttery taste which was really lovely. I think you should profile this one. The people in the group with more expertise than us didn't really like it, but our end of the room loved it. I'd like to see what you think. All the best, James and Frances.

Kelly said...

Mmm, oh this looks like a great recipe! I'll be trying it soon.

Marcus g58 said...

Kelly, thanks for stopping by to check it out... and I'm trying it again very soon -- tonight!

James, glad you're out sampling! We'll have to get together soon and follow up -- I'm intrigued about this event you and Frances went to. Guessing prices of bottles is a new approach to blind tasting. Cheers to you both.

Neil, it's funny James bought up a Carneros wine in his comment -- Carneros is exactly what Jacques recommends for his recipe and you'll be happy to know that it's none other than a Pinot. Check out the link and happy cooking! (Good eye re: tarragon. I must've had some on hand and threw it in though I completely forgot doing it until you pointed it out... I thought those were some stray bits from the rosemary potatoes -- in any case this underlines the point I made in the post: the pickle, tomato and tabasco are key, whatever else is just along for the ride!)

Joe, sounds familiar as I recall having a lesser problem stemming from the fact that Blogger.com thought I was a potential spammer. Hope you followed the link and that it cleared up for you but frankly I've got to say that I'm wishing more for my own tech recovery right now -- I'm looking at a fried hard drive at home and a site meter that's been out of commission all weekend. Basically no way to post, upload or draft and no way to monitor the fruits of my labour in terms of hits. Egad. When it rains it pours. Don't expect any new posts anytime soon, I'm afraid.

Joe said...

Yikes - no site meter and no computer - I've got it good. I raise a glass of "Torus" to you tonight, and hope you can get that under control. I hope to be publishing again tomorrow?