Simple Sauvignon, for about a sawbuck: Château des Matards 2005

This is very nice example of strong, vibrant acidity regulated by minerality and a musky centre. Château des Matards Premières Côtes de Blaye 2005 offers lovely fruit and it offers some depth too, but what I most like about it is how it penetrates the palate as much as the acid seems to coat and tantalize it. Balance is perhaps the expression I'm searching for.

As an aperatif, the refreshment value is clear. Add some starch -- potatoes and garlic sautéed in butter and green onions, for instance -- and a second dimension of this wine comes out. This type of food, I'm guessing, acts to coat the mouth more, subduing the bracing mouthfeel this wine provides. Instead the minerality and slight muskiness that lies at the core of this cuvée is accentuated. With food or without, take it either way. The blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle is winning.

The 2005 vintage is a very pleasing year for so many wines, especially Bordeaux whites. Château des Matards is the second one that has stood out to me. From the more storied expanses of Graves, (which is just downstream from the Côtes) Château Roquetaillade La Grange also convinces.

After yesterday's Marlborough argument, I needed some convincing and, in this, indeed there is quite a bit.

Terrigeol et fils "Le Pas D'Ozelle" St-Ciers-sur-Gironde, France. 12.5%.