Finding a mustier Muscadet

new york times wine column muscadetHave I fallen through the hole in NYTimes.com that leads to an alternate universe? One where the Wines of the Times team sip vintages of Muscadet from the eighties and earlier? Whachou talkin' about Florence Fabricant? Her biweekly Pairings column is not a mistake. Check out Eric Asimov's intro to this week's multimedia tasting notes or read his article here.

I like the fact that even Mr. Asimov admits that an aged Muscadet is news to him. Makes me feel a little better for not having any knowledge on the subject myself. It turns out that old bottles from the mouth of the Loire are nothing new. Wine Spectator wrote about how good Muscadet -- usually the product that comes from one of the three specific appellations rather than the general "Muscadet" one -- can slumber like the legendary Riesling.

Still, I'd like it if my wine supplier was more aware of this, be it new to me or not. I see that at the LCBO in Ontario, you can buy Le Master De Donatien Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine 1996. No such opportunities in Quebec, except perhaps in my fridge, where I'm happy to say the 2000 Master Donatien is in supply and all of the sudden in no rush to get opened. That is good news for someone who thinks almost every aspect of his wine collection is "drink now".

My search of the SAQ site results in no Muscadet aged more than five years while the '76, '89, and '93 vintages of powerful Rieslings are all readily stocked. It's no wonder that this story is a bit of an eye-opener. Now to get my hands on some of these bottles...


caveman said...

My good Doctor,
I did a vertical tasting of L'ecu from 1994 to 2002 that proved to me how fantastic aged muscadet can be. However, the older vintages lost some it's minerality and acidity which made it less 'oyster-tastic.'

But killer with Sole i would bet.

Nice to have you on board..if you are local, and rezin friendly.. have you tried the Chapeau Melon?


g58 said...

I guess I have to start somewhere and that L'Ecu Expression de Granit 2003 is a good place since I've been meaning to try it (and February 1 now sounds like a good time to go buy it).
Chapeau Melon I have not tried. Is it a rézin special import? The only hits I'm getting are the wine list at Bu and websites dedicated to the Avengers. :)

caveman said...

Chapeau Melon is one of Rezin's freak wines on IP but well worth the outlay. I checked and they are all out but will havew some again in a couple of months. I will keep you informed (I am reviewing it this week so I won't say tooo much). So, you are a Montrealer.. you look very familiar.....